Silver Birch – Expressions of Grace Bonsai https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk With age comes beauty and charm Fri, 26 Jan 2024 13:35:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.4 https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/little-logo-75x75.png Silver Birch – Expressions of Grace Bonsai https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk 32 32 2nd Larch Pruning & Snakebark Maple Tidy Up https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/2nd-larch-pruning-snakebark-maple-tidy-up/ https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/2nd-larch-pruning-snakebark-maple-tidy-up/#respond Sat, 07 Aug 2021 16:15:16 +0000 https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/?p=2608

Around this time of summer, many of our Japanese Larch will have produced a long enough second flush to allow for a follow-up prune.  As with the first pruning, we are seeking sets of buds that have a small internodal gap.  If the buds are still too far apart then we prune right back to ‘just above’ the needle swirl at the base and wait for a final smaller push in Mid-Autumn.

If your tree is in early development and you are still looking to thicken branches then I would recommend you only remove unwanted new growth that will not be of use in the design or may lead to unwanted branch thickening and inverse taper.  If you are unsure, then it is much safer to leave the growth and review it when we carry out the Spring prune and bud selection in March 2022.

Please read the June blog post which provides detailed images of this pruning technique.

The images I have selected show one Larch that needs over 3/4 of the new shoots to be pruned.  The lower branches will be kept longer with at least 4 viable buds as I intend to wire some movement into them when they start to swell next Spring.

The second Larch pushed out lots of new growth but it is very juvenile so I will leave it till Autumn before pruning.

Most of our decidious bonsai will now have a good covering of leaves and be in need of a tidy up to ensure we are able to maintain decent airflow and light into the core of the tree.  We will want to remove any unwanted juvenile growth that sprouted from junctions or crotches and we will look to prune shoots back to the desired shape. 

This pruning is not intended to encourage another flush, though it does happen.  This is the time when I am looking to remove surface weeds and inspect for bugs.  I also use this time to wire in ‘minor’ movement on branches for my younger nursery stock.  I often carry a notebook and write down any thoughts I may have for the future of the bonsai. 

It is important to remember that your bonsai needs a good amount of leaves to enable it to produce strong vascular growth in the autumn.  This will be the period when the tree expands trunk and branch girth.  If you remove too much of the growth now, you can severely impair this aspect and put the tree back a year…or two! 

This Snakebark Maple has been in the wars and has lost several key primary branches over the past 7 years.  I have slowly brought it back to full health and am now looking at maximising the ‘charm’ of the chaotic root growth whilst hiding the obvious ugly trunk flare resulting from extensive dieback.

Once I had pruned and tidied up the tree I decided on using front option No 2.  It still allows the central trunk dieback to be a part of the design but reduces the amount of visible inverse taper.  This angle also improves the view of the nebari and the branch structure.  It still has a long way to go yet…

So what else have I been doing?

I purchased a variety of 2-year-old starter plants in 2016 that included: Hornbeam. Italian Alder, Japanese Larch, Silver Birch and Crab Apple.  I try to work on them but find the demands of the more developed bonsai sap my energy and time.

This week I have managed to do some more wiring work to establish a primary structure for these potensai.  The key is to avoid trying to prune to the ‘final shape.  You need all of this leaf mass to help the tree grow but you can definitely apply some wire and get your branches moving in the right direction.

My Golden Larch post branch removal.
My £10 garden centre Juniper from 2015

I appreciate this is only a snapshot of some of the ongoing tasks in the nursery so if you have any specific questions you want me to answer then just ask by leaving a comment.  If you take the time to look back over the previous blog posts and also my facebook posts I am certain you will probably find the information you need.

HOT TIP:
If you have applied any wire during the last 3 months then be sure to have a reminder set on your phone for early autumn because this is when you may see some pinching.  Early autumn is also the time to apply some more biogold fertiliser so make sure you have some ready 🙂

And now for a final few images showing one of my imported Dawn Redwood.  This has been put through quite a radical branch removal and it’s potting angle changed.  This year I finally applied the ‘once only’ pruning technique and all of the new fronds look fantastic.

Imported and purchased in 2016
Dawn Redwood - All it needs now is a dinosaur!

Another long blog but hopefully someone is getting something from them? 

Happy bonsaiing 🙂

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Pruning Summary – Apple and a few others https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/pruning-summary-apple-and-a-few-others/ https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/pruning-summary-apple-and-a-few-others/#respond Fri, 18 Jun 2021 09:57:11 +0000 https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/?p=2374

Welcome to the final article covering the ‘Post Flush hardened’ period.  In truth, we should all have our decidious bonsai pruned by now…but life does get in the way sometimes!

I have started off with an image carousel displaying a few of the ongoing apple pip projects.  I have quite a few more in similiar stages but these were the ones pruned today.  The more I work with apple the more I learn and the more I come to see the potential they hold for novices and experts alike.  The biggest tip I have is not to let the shoots get away from you – they thrive in creating coarse and ugly junctions.

Apple potensai

Apple produce a vigorous flush of growth and sends out multiple shoots from each junction.  If left unpruned these will lead to unsightly scars on the trunk and primary branches.

This apple originated on Stronsay in the Orkney Isles.  Living a sheltered and cloistered life amongst the religious it found life in the chaos of Grantham overwhelming 🙂

 

The pruning approach is the same as I have described in previous posts.  It is also important to remove all basally growing shoots from the root mass.

There is also no issues with trying to clean up stubs and other unsightly bumps and lumps.  You can use bonsai tools (concave cutters) or any other sharp razor that allows for a clean cut.  It is worth purchasing awound sealant for those bigger exposed sites.

 

Apple suffers regularly from scab and powdery mildew.  These are unsightly and do lead to leaf loss and branch death. 

Scab is an air-borne, fungal disease and is easily recognisable by the black-brown spots that appear on the leaves.  It spreads during wet periods in late spring / summer.  By the time you have noticed scab, it will be too late to control with fungicides.

So I would advise:

Correct pruning practises that remove infected shoots and leaves to maintain good airflow inside your tree, reducing the damp microclimate beloved by scab.  Scab will also harbour in fallen leaves over winter only to infect next year’s new growth, so it’s a good idea to either rake up fallen leaves in the autumn or collect them with a mower.

Powdery Mildew seems to hit my apple bonsai every year when the sun begins to shine.  Unlike most fungal infections, apple powdery mildew spores do not require moisture to germinate.  Therefore, this infection is known as the “dry weather disease.”

The leaves and blossoms become covered with the fungal spores as they emerge from their buds.  The spores look like a light gray or white powder, and the infected leaves curl upward and eventually die.  These spores are easily blown by the wind and cause secondary infections on new shoots, leaves, and fruit.  As long as the shoots continue growing, the leaves and shoots can continue to become infected.

So I would advise:

You should prune any shoots that appear white in the early spring, so they won’t spread spores.  Regular use of an appropriate fungicide is crucial – especially early spring and then almost weekly through the growing season.  After leaf fall in autumn critically examine the trunk and branches for signs of infected growth…remove anything that concerns you.

Hornbeam

The hornbeam is another popular hedging style plant for novices to cut their teeth on.  A very forgiving subject you can make some serious errors and still have a fantastic bonsai.  This is a nursery ‘cast off’ that I saved in 2015.  I cut the trunk down 3 years ago and just let it recover.

Pruning is the same as with all of the other species and generally I always carry out a partial defoliation and leaf reduction.  It is slower to produce the second flush but it will appear.  Beware – this tree, like maples, are a favourite for greenfly…so make sure you spray 🙂

I will start to carve down the ugly stump in mid to late summer.

Leaf Reduction and Partial Defoliation:

This is the means in which we can encourage buds to be activated and is also a means of increasing air and light flow to the entire canopy.  I never remove more than 50% of the leaves and size reduction is also about 40%.  When I remove a leaf I always ensure to keep the opposing untouched.

 

This pruning process does not change across a broad spectrum of decidious varieties.  I have tried to highlight a few of the nuances for Dawn Redwood and Japanese Larch for which you must be aware.  You may find variations within your own collection so it is important to observe how your tree reacts to pruning and consider ammending timings etc.

The crucial element for any pruning is be certain you know what you are trying to achieve AND make sure the tree is healthy before you start reducing its ability to photosynthesize.  Where you have powdery mildew try to intervene early and always isolate the bonsai.  I spray quite regularly with one of the common brands of fungicide.  It may not look great this year but it is highly likely that next year it will come back strong.

I have included some examples of ‘before and after’  for Oak and Silver Birch.  Please enjoy and do contact me if you are uncertain in anyway – I will do my best to help. 

Happy pruning & spraying 🙂

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