Cuttings – Expressions of Grace Bonsai https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk With age comes beauty and charm Wed, 14 Feb 2024 16:18:22 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.2 https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/little-logo-75x75.png Cuttings – Expressions of Grace Bonsai https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk 32 32 Azalea Bonsai https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/azalea-bonsai/ https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/azalea-bonsai/#respond Thu, 15 Feb 2024 11:11:21 +0000 https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/?p=5047 Azaleas produce incredible flower displays and last year was fantastic. Let me tell you the KEY dates and Tasks that I ALWAYS follow to ensure my Satsuki Bonsai thrive.

A few Fun Facts about Azalea Bonsai.
What about the Flowers?
When is my BEST time for pruning?
What about Cuttings?
Repot: Spring or Summer?
When do I do my Wiring?
What are the issues with pests?

God Bless & Happy Bonsaiing
Xavier

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Thread Grafting my Trident Maple Bonsai https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/thread-grafting-my-trident-maple-bonsai/ https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/thread-grafting-my-trident-maple-bonsai/#respond Wed, 14 Feb 2024 15:15:09 +0000 https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/?p=5027 Three days ago I was walking around the bonsai garden in a T-shirt with the sun blazing down on my balding scalp.  With no sound of ‘drilling or cutting’ coming from the neighbours I took the plunge and grabbed two of my Tridents to try my hand at Thread Grafting.  Let me say one thing now.  This is not a difficult task so please read on if you think you have a bonsai that is in need of another branch.  Just be aware that the clock is ticking – you do not want to try this once the buds have started to swell.

Thread Graft of A Trident Maple in 2020

The first and last time I tried doing this was back in early winter, 2019.  It went very well and I lovingly kept it protected in the greenhouse over winter – occasionally going out to admire my technical prowess!  But, in the early-spring enthusiasm of 2020 I had what I could only call, a ‘brain fart’!  The threaded whip was starting to ‘green up’ and looked like it was going to be a big success.  So, to help it along, I decided to remove all of the buds.  I know, everyone right now is smacking there foreheads in disbelief.

To this day, I still cannot understand what was going through my mind.  Understandably, the graft failed and all I could do was admire the speed with which I had undone all my expert work!

Can I do this to ALL my Bonsai?

If you have a deciduous tree and the buds have not started to swell, then yes, you can try a thread graft.  However, as this requires buds to be ‘threaded’ through a hole in the trunk, it is probably best to use a tree with small compact buds.  Ideally, I would be looking at either a Japanese Maple or perhaps even a Hornbeam.  Certainly not a Beech 🙂

Another point to consider is whether or not the species you want to use buds readily from old wood.  Both Hornbeam and Trident Maple regularly send out new growth from unexpected and advantageous places on the trunk of a bonsai.  With this in mind, I find it better to wait a few years before deciding on Thread Grafting as an option.

The key factor is the bud size, because your aim is to be able to thread as much of the whip through the trunk as possible – you want a nice snug fit, without knocking off the buds you need for this to work.

What Tools do I need?

  • Power Drill and correct sized drill bit.
  • A whip from the tree OR a matching cutting in another pot.
  • Wire to support and hold the graft.
  • Grafting knife to clean the wound and expose the cambium.
  • Wooden Toothpicks to act as wedges.
  • Cut Paste (To seal around the whip / wound site).

Selecting the best Trident Whip Cutting.

A selection of Maple cuttings

If you have been able to plan ahead of time, then you would have allowed several shoots to extend from the

previous growing season.  These can then be manipulated with wire into the required position for the graft to take place.  If you are using growth from the same bonsai then it is always best to apply wire to that branch first. Usually up to the point where you will be poking it through the trunk.  Make sure to leave a decent length beyond this point to allow you to wire the end of the branch once it has been ‘threaded’.

If you do not have long enough growth from the previous year then hunt around for some 2 to 3 year old rooted cuttings.  You are looking for something that is really just a single slim shoot that will be easy to work with.

Some drilling is required.

I use a standard drill at normal speed.  Some people recommend using a slow speed but I have found this can result in more damage to the tree.  Make sure you have marked exactly where you want the whip to enter and leave the trunk. Use a screw or sharp object to create a guide hole for the drill bit.  You definitely don’t want to have it sliding across the bark, causing unwanted damage.

The KEY TIP is to start drilling where you want the whip to exit from.  This ensures you will have the smallest possible hole for the graft to take.  Remember that when drilling, it is the EXIT hole that is always larger and often, ‘blown out’.

Once you have finished drilling then be sure to use some wire to poke out any debris.  Clean up the edges with your blade or knife to make the site of the fusion a lot more receptive to the whip when it is wedged in place.

Doing the Thread Graft:

This is the simplest aspect of the operation and requires you to carefully push the whip through the hole you have created UNTIL you are unable to safely push it further without removing buds. Then use the remaining wire to secure it in place and/or wire to the whip end for branch movement.  This is easiest explained by looking at the picture.

With thin barked trees like Maples it is not necessary to expose the cambium, however, I do this anyway and then wedge it against the upper side of the drilled hole using toothpicks.  This method is aimed at making the fusion with the mother trunk more effective.  If the whip and tree is healthy then as the buds open and extend (through spring) the shoot will thicken causing fusion to take place at the exit and entry points.

Do not carry out any operations on this tree as you want all of its energy to be directed towards shoot thickening.  I would definitely recommend keeping the tree out of the wind or any sort of direct sunlight until you have seen a good flush of healthy growth.

Aftercare:

I would keep the tree fertilised and well watered and cut back a lot of the growth EXCEPT for the threaded whip.  I would allow this shoot to extend as much as it can and leave it unpruned.  The aim is to encourage thickening and this will only occur if there are buds and new shoots growing off of it.

Watch out for any wire that you have used – as would be the case for any bonsai.  Keep an eye out for signs of thickening and callousing around the exit point of the graft as this should be a sign of succcess.

I will be expecting to seperate the whip from the original cutting during the following spring (2025).

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU EVER HAVE A ‘BRAIN FART’ AND UNEXPECTEDLY STRIP ALL OF THE NEW BUDS FROM YOUR GRAFT 🙂

God Bless & Happy Bonsaiing
Xavier

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KEY Bonsai Tasks for Oct / Nov https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/key-bonsai-tasks-for-oct-nov/ https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/key-bonsai-tasks-for-oct-nov/#respond Wed, 24 Jan 2024 18:29:40 +0000 https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/?p=4719 Find out today what Bonsai Tasks I will be doing in October and November (Autumn). I give you a detailed look at the tree species needing attention and a few pointers about other stuff we should do before winter hits 🙁

Tasks planned for Autumn:

Chinese Elm Bonsai.
Silver Birch Bonsai.
Dawn Redwood Bonsai.
Trident Maple Bonsai.
Japanese Maple Bonsai.
Oak, Larch and Hornbeam – Leave alone.
Any Air Layers?
This years cuttings.
Greenhouse and Winter Planning.
Rafia and wire on Bonsai.
The Beech Bonsai.
Indoor Trees – Ficus & Jade.
Use a Winter Wash.
Dirty Pots and Used Bonsai Soil.
What about missed Bonsai?

Hopefully your task list is a little smaller – I didn’t even finish this list this year!

God Bless & Happy Bonsaiing
Xavier

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Hinoki Cypress Bargain Basement Project https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/hinoki-cypress-bargain-basement-project/ https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/hinoki-cypress-bargain-basement-project/#respond Sat, 28 Aug 2021 09:58:39 +0000 https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/?p=2635

So, as the end of summer rapidly approaches, I find my thoughts wandering eagerly to a time of rest.  The past 5 months have been hectic and despite the enjoyment, I am definitely ready to take a break.  However, we are not quite at that time yet…

Hinoki Cypress Project
I think this will be my backside!

Now is often a great time to start scouring the nurseries for unwanted ‘summer-damaged’ stock.  Normally I will find dwarf azalea or potentilla but this week I was lucky enough to discover a Hinoki Cypress.  Although I have never worked on this genus before, the price reduction to just £5.99 was too good to resist 🙂

The rules for purchasing ‘bargain-basement’ nursery stock remain the same:

  • Check beneath the soil for signs of inverse taper on the base of the trunk
  • Is there a good number of usable branches (not just 2 dimensions)
  • Is it relatively healthy (I am sure there will be some obvious dieback)
  • Is there a unique feature to seperate it from ‘the rest’?
  • Is it cheap enough that it dying will not be a big drama 🙁
The roots look healthy

You must get you fingers dirty before you make that final decision!  I have pulled this out of the plastic container and immediately noticed healthy white roots.  It is also not root bound so I could get away with leaving it ‘as is’ during styling.

It has a unique twin trunk feature which means it is very likely to have a strong base for the future nebari to develop.  I had a little dig under the surface and could see that inverse taper would not be a problem.

Definitely worth paying the price 🙂

When I got it home I drenched it and then left it in a shady part of the garden until I had a chance to do some research. I always take the time to learn about my tree before I jump in with the chainsaw!  I was satisfied that basic structural work could be done safely and because the root ball was nice and healthy I chose to do a very simple ‘slip pot’ into a bigger container to protect it through the winter.

A basic 'slip potting'
Ready for wiring - Rear
All cleaned out - Front

I ‘m still not entirely certain which will be the front for this design.  I have decided to wait until next year and just let the tree recover and push out new growth in 2022.  I may yet remove some more lower branches and apply wire sometime next year.  The main priority for me is allowing the tree time to develop a strong root base.  Patience…patience…patience 🙂

And of course…now is a good time for taking cuttings.  I obtained 8 usable shoots making sure to make clean cuts just below the point where the colour has changed from green to brownish.  They are potted up in vermiculite and peat based mix and have plastic humidity ‘domes’.  I will check them in about 6 weeks and hopefully see fresh growth.  They will stay in the greenhouse through the winter.

And now for some bonsai 'home truths'.

Every year, no matter how careful I am, some bonsai just die.  Sometimes it is due to mistakes I have made and sometimes it is just down to the environment.  Whatever the cause – it happens and you must be prepared for this.  When you take a tree out of its natural environment and make it grow in a small pot things will sometimes go wrong.  The best we can do is to try and observe and understand how our bonsai grows and responds to different environmental factors.

Learn about the tree before you start to do any type of work on it.  Remember, the tree is already unhappy that you are not letting it grow in the open so anytime you do anything else it will have some form of adverse affect.  Hence, most of the pruning and shaping work is done in the spring when the tree is full of stored energy.

I lost six decent bonsai this year

This year I had to say farewell to: a mature Japanese Maple, two ten-year-old Satsuki Azalea and several younger assorted varieties.  I also had a near-miss with my prized Japanese White Pine and several Chinese Elms.

I think the Azalea died as a result of poor soil which allowed the roots to dry out during  the hot sun.  I have no idea why the large maple died – shame, it had a great nebari 🙁

Severe dehydration across the entirety of the tree
Waiting for the undertakers...
Six weeks later after a good watering.

So, the advice is to never totally give up on your tree.  I always wait at least one year before consigning anything to the bonsai funeral pyre.  At this moment two more of my ‘deaduns’ are sending out baby shoots from their root base. Granted, the tree will not be the same as before but at least it will have a chance to start again.

Now is also the time for the 3rd round of pruning on your Japanese Larch.  Check those new shoots for tight buds close together and prune back to this point.  If the internodal distance between buds is still large then cut back to the first whorl where you should hopefully activate two opposing buds.  If you are unsure or your tree is still in development then leave things until next spring.

You should also be seeing a lot of leaves yellowing on your Satsuki Azalea.  Don’t worry – it is perfectly normal.  All I do is gently pluck them off the branch. 

This is also the time to do light pruning on your Chinese Elm.  All I do is cut back to the design silhouette and remove those pesky mealy bugs feeding off the trunk and branches!!!!

Happy bonsaiing 🙂

 

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Cuttings and general bonsai upkeep https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/cuttings-and-general-bonsai-upkeep/ https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/cuttings-and-general-bonsai-upkeep/#respond Fri, 06 Aug 2021 13:25:56 +0000 https://www.expressionsofgracebonsai.co.uk/?p=2577

If you are anything like me then you will really struggle to throw anything away.  Every year, since I started in bonsai, I have spent as much time taking cuttings as I have in developing the trees.  This was not a deliberate choice on my part – just a natural desire to use all of that discarded material.  When I first began, I had no idea that there were techniques used for successful propagation.  I just took an offcut and planted it into some garden soil.  Any size and any time of the year that I was pruning…

Why is my stick alive?

Surprisingly, I had a reasonable amount of success during the early years so it never occurred to me that I was just lucky.   I still have an eight-year-old Corkbark Elm that started off as a broken branch discarded into a compost pile. 

I later learnt that Chinese Elm are particularly easy to propagate from cuttings – which did explain the success.

The branch that lived!

I take my cuttings twice a year.  First, is sometime in late May / early June when the spring flush of growth has extended and hardened off.  This also coincides with my pruning cycles and the increased temperatures / daylight hours.  Ideally, we would want nightime temperatures to be above 15 °C to aid root development. 

The second occasion occurs late July when I carry out my general pruning to maintain bonsai shape.  I have most success placing the cuttings into damp perlite or vermiculite.  They are then kept in a propagator or covered with an upended plastic bottle.  I keep them misted but do not water.  They are normally kept in a shaded part of the garden to reduce transpiration. 

The best results come with: Fuji Cherry, Trident Maple, Chinese Elm and Boxwood.  With indoor varieties I find that Ficus and Jade root very easily and all I need to be careful of is not to overwater them as they succumb to root rot quickly.

With Fuji Cherry I take a cutting from the point where the stem has changed colour and hardened enough to be self supporting.  I remove the growing tip and around 3/4 of the leaves.  I use a general purpose rooting hormone and then place the cutting into the soil medium.

I have used a range of potting mediums with success.  The real issue is to ensure you establish a humidity bubble to stop the stem drying out.  Don’t worry if the leaves fall off – shoots may still appear 4 -6 weeks later.

Dawn Redwood was a surprise success for me and though I only take 3 or 4 a year it is great seeing them develop.  I tend to concentrate on last years unwanted growth as it gives me a thick stem.  I use either perlite or sphagnum moss and then cover them to preserve humidity.  

It is worth remembering that after a couple of years you should consider loosely wiring the main trunk to produce the movement you desire.  Once the trunk thickens too much you have no hope of bending them!

Trident Maple are treated exactly the same and you can take up to a pencil thickness cutting.  With the thicker cuttings I use sphagnum moss as the potting medium as I find this helps the hardened wood stay hydrated whilst the roots form.  I normally leave two or three leaves on the shoots and remove the growing tip.  I always cut at the base of an internode section.

I will take up to two dozen cuttings for each washing up bowl I use – success is up to 80% for me normally.  In Year 1 I will thin out any obvious weaklings and then split them in year 2 to individual pots.

Japanese Larch are the hardest cuttings from my experience.  I have tried a variety of times and methods and can boast the grand total of 3 successes in as many years!  But at least that is three more than I had before – at no cost 🙂

Satsuki Azalea are best taken as heel cuttings.  This is when you gently peel the shoot away from the trunk or branch.  My success with these is also mixed and I have found the cuttings that have taken are extremely slow to develop.  But again, they are free…

Like the Trident Maple, you can take very thick cuttings off of a Chinese Elm.  They often propagate successfully without need of humidity covers and this time of the year I am planting all of my prunings into washing up bowls.

This spring I removed a large straight branch from one of my bigger Elms.  I removed all of the bark on the lower side and wired it into some soil to attempt a variation of the ground layer technique.  I definitely have new growth so time will tell…

I have found that so long as you apply the general principles to your propagation success will follow.  It may be discouraging in the first year because they are still not bonsai but watching them send out new shoots is definitely rewarding.  It doesn’t matter how many failures you have because the ones that do take will be your future bonsai masterpieces. 

I definitely recommend you scouring You Tube for content on ‘how to take’ cuttings – there are loads of videos available.  The only cautionary thing to remember is that we each live in different areas and it can be surprising just how varied results can be within our own ‘micro’ climates.

If you are ever confused at whether your cutting is viable it is worth taking a closer look at the rare but popular ‘dead tip’ variety.  This is a sure give away that your propagation failed!  Oh…and don’t be confused by the little green weed – that will never make a bonsai.

It is now the time to carry out 2nd pruning on your Japanese Larch but more on that in the next post.

Happy bonsaiing 🙂

The rare 'Dead Tip' cutting
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