In this video I talk through all the Essential Bonsai tasks for December / January.  With the temperatures dropping,  what do I REALLY need to do to protect my trees?  I look at the choices I make to protect my valuable bonsai & developing saplings / Pre-Bonsai.  Grantham is Zone 9b so overnight temperatures rarely stay below -5C for longer than a couple of days (if ever).  The biggest issue I have to deal with in my garden nursery is the howling gales that constantly freeze the tips of my ramified bonsai!

So what can you do?  Easy – watch the video and find out.  Or, you can just cast your eye over the headings below and get an idea of what I will be doing before settling down for Christmas Bonsai Carols…

AND…There is so much work to get done before I can finally update my ACCESS Bonsai Management System.

SUBSCRIBERS PHOTOGRAPHS EDITION

This week I am also showcasing more bonsai photographs from Subscribers. Submissions have been sent in from the following people:

Chris, Joe, Susan, Vinnie, Joe G and Dan of The Bonsai Project.

Topics Discussed:

What Bonsai really needs winter protection?
Is Chinese Elm very cold hardy?
What is a safe location for your Bonsai?
A last ‘wire’ check.
Plan for next Springs repots.
Make sure Display Benches and Pots are checked.
Applying my Dormant Spray.
Check stocks of soil, pots, fertilser & bug sprays.
Subscribers Photographs.
A word about my Access Bonsai Management System. (Bonsai App)

God Bless & Happy Bonsaiing
Xavier

Through a series of photographs and short notes I will take you through the repot and root prune process used for one of my Chinese Elms in Spring 2018.  This process is the same I would apply for any bonsai that has outgrown its container.

Step 1 – Observation of the bonsai

The tree is sitting very high in the pot suggesting the roots are now pushing it ‘up’ from its original placement.  With Chinese Elm it is not uncommon to have to repot annually due to their rapid root growth.

I also noticed that water ran off the surface without much absorption and the lower soil was remaining dry and crumbly.  This is an indication of poor percolation / soil breakdown.  This reduces the ability for oxygen and water to interact with the roots.

Step 2 – Exposing the rootball

Take your time to remove the tree from the pot (don’t foget to remove the ties first!).  Slowly tease away the soil mass to identify the primary rootball.

Make sure you have a spray bottle on hand to keep misting the fine roots.

Take care not to cause unecassary damage to existing roots.  A chopstick is the ideal sorting tool.

Step 3 – Start sorting out the root structure

Using a chopstick I begin to remove the soil and other matter that binds the roots together.  Carefully beginning the process of untangling the fibres – some will tear (do not worry)

I examine the roots for signs of disease. (They often smell or squash easily)

Watch out for any bugs or larvae that may be wriggling about – try to identify and eradicate. GET ADVICE!

Step 4 – Time to do some root pruning

Once fully untangled it was possible to establish what  I really needed in this mass of growth.  I identified the core networks of roots I wanted for my tree – removing the rest!

In this case I have removed at least 1/2 of the lower root growth.  New roots will emerge from the cut sites.  In this way it is possible to develop a ramified system.

I have  removed  crossing roots and unwanted large surface roots.  I keep misting the roots to keep them wet whilst I work.

Step 5 – Prepare the pot

I have cleaned the old pot and checked for any winter damage.  In this case it had a hairline crack so I changed it.  Nothing worse than having a pot crack open in winter – risking root damage / death.

I have put a plastic mesh across the drainage holes to reduce the chance of insects getting in and grit getting out.

I then layed down a thin layer of cleaned grit as a base for the bonsai soil. This can reduce water collecting  causing root rot…

Step 6 – Prepare tie wires and soil bed

I cut two lengths of wire for anchoring ties and thread them through the drainage holes.  As the elm has lots of gnarly old roots beneath the surface I will use these to hold the tree in place.

I added the bonsai soil to the level I wanted the tree to sit at and ‘mounded up’ at the position the trunk will be placed.  This is the time to re-check the root and tree fits the pot.  I was aiming for a good radial surface spread and wanted to allow space at the edges for more root growth.

Step 7 – Position the tree

By now you should be happy where the tree will sit.  This is not a process you want to repeat unless you have to – it stresses the tree and can slow/stop growth for the year.

Secure the tree into position with the wire ensuring you avoid future damage to surface roots – wire digging in as they expand. I slide the wires beneath the lower ‘hidden’ roots or use a wooden peg system.

Step 8 – Fill the pot with soil

I gradually added soil to the pot whilst working it into the root network with a chopstick.  Slowly trying to fill any air pockets in hard to get places.

This is the last opportunity to identify and remove any unwanted upward growing roots.  So keep your clippers handy…

In this project I have added a rock and wrapped some of the roots around it to provide interest.  Over the years I hope that it will become gripped by the expanding roots.

Step 9 – Water and Detail

Water the tree carefully until it runs out of the bottom of the pot clear.  Free draining soil avoids the risk of water collecting and risking root rot during this critical early stage.

Check for any final alterations – you can still move the tree if needed.  Make certain it feels secure. You don’t want new root growth breaking due to insecure tie downs.

Brush away unwanted soil from the exposed roots and apply a moss top dressing. (See later blog post)

Step 10 – Admire your work

Take the time to admire what you have achieved – well done!

I make notes in my bonsai diary with a bring up date for the next ‘planned’ repot.  This tree will be fine for at least 3 years but I have a review date set for 2020 (2yrs)

I will not start applying fertiliser for at least 4 weeks or until any new growth starts hardening off.  As an indoor tree you can repot throughout the growing season without much risk.  I avoid winter as my indoor elms go dormant.

If you wish to purchase this tree then send me a message or look in the shop section.

I killed my first Chinese Elm, also my first bonsai, within the space of 3 months.  I had no knowledge of how to care for this plant and no understanding that such care was needed.  When it first started to shed all of its leaves I panicked and thought it must need more fertiliser – to stop the leaves falling!

When more leaves fell from the bonsai I looked at a book in hope and realised my tree probably had a root problem and must need repotting.  Needless to say, I had no idea about the right soil or when the right time was to do such an operation.  I pulled it out and trimmed the roots, because the book said I should, and then put it back in using a combination of topsoil and John Innes No 2 (potting mix).

Surprisingly, it seemed to ‘pick up’ over the next month and I thought I had the problem solved.  I was now a Bonsai Master!!! Alas, I then noticed the tips of the new shoots were wilting and yellowing.  Clearly I thought, with an air of smugness, I needed to prune this back (like the book says)…

This process of plant murder continued for about 3 months.   It is probably important to mention that I made the biggest ‘common’ mistake by daily overwatering…as well as giving it more fertiliser.  One week later it dropped the last of its leaves and the new shoots browned off and died.  I think I ‘loved it’ to death…

But here is what happened with a dying Chinese Elm that I did take the correct action on

So if you want to learn how NOT TO kill your Chinese Elm Bonsai then I recommend watching this video

God Bless & Happy Bonsaiing

Xav

In this episode I am going to explain my Top 5 ‘beginner-tree’ choices in relation to several critieria.  This will take into account: relative experience, indoor or outdoor, flowering, cheapest and quickest results.  Then, I will follow my own advice and start a brand new tree – next episode; as part of my Bonsai Basics series.

I also explain why I chose to ignore one of the world’s most popular starter bonsai. Let me know if you agree in the comments…

Topics Covered:

01:25 My best Flowering Option – Dwarf Azalea.
03:58 My first starter-tree Option – Japanese Larch.
05:54 My easiest to source Option – English Oak
07:52 My best indoor Option – Tigerbark Ficus.
09:23 My favourite Option – Italian Alder.

Which species do you think I should have chosen???

God Bless & Happy Bonsaiing
Xavier