In this video I talk through all the Essential Bonsai tasks for December / January.  With the temperatures dropping,  what do I REALLY need to do to protect my trees?  I look at the choices I make to protect my valuable bonsai & developing saplings / Pre-Bonsai.  Grantham is Zone 9b so overnight temperatures rarely stay below -5C for longer than a couple of days (if ever).  The biggest issue I have to deal with in my garden nursery is the howling gales that constantly freeze the tips of my ramified bonsai!

So what can you do?  Easy – watch the video and find out.  Or, you can just cast your eye over the headings below and get an idea of what I will be doing before settling down for Christmas Bonsai Carols…

AND…There is so much work to get done before I can finally update my ACCESS Bonsai Management System.

SUBSCRIBERS PHOTOGRAPHS EDITION

This week I am also showcasing more bonsai photographs from Subscribers. Submissions have been sent in from the following people:

Chris, Joe, Susan, Vinnie, Joe G and Dan of The Bonsai Project.

Topics Discussed:

What Bonsai really needs winter protection?
Is Chinese Elm very cold hardy?
What is a safe location for your Bonsai?
A last ‘wire’ check.
Plan for next Springs repots.
Make sure Display Benches and Pots are checked.
Applying my Dormant Spray.
Check stocks of soil, pots, fertilser & bug sprays.
Subscribers Photographs.
A word about my Access Bonsai Management System. (Bonsai App)

God Bless & Happy Bonsaiing
Xavier

Through a series of photographs and short notes I will take you through the repot and root prune process used for one of my Chinese Elms in Spring 2018.  This process is the same I would apply for any bonsai that has outgrown its container.

Step 1 – Observation of the bonsai

The tree is sitting very high in the pot suggesting the roots are now pushing it ‘up’ from its original placement.  With Chinese Elm it is not uncommon to have to repot annually due to their rapid root growth.

I also noticed that water ran off the surface without much absorption and the lower soil was remaining dry and crumbly.  This is an indication of poor percolation / soil breakdown.  This reduces the ability for oxygen and water to interact with the roots.

Step 2 – Exposing the rootball

Take your time to remove the tree from the pot (don’t foget to remove the ties first!).  Slowly tease away the soil mass to identify the primary rootball.

Make sure you have a spray bottle on hand to keep misting the fine roots.

Take care not to cause unecassary damage to existing roots.  A chopstick is the ideal sorting tool.

Step 3 – Start sorting out the root structure

Using a chopstick I begin to remove the soil and other matter that binds the roots together.  Carefully beginning the process of untangling the fibres – some will tear (do not worry)

I examine the roots for signs of disease. (They often smell or squash easily)

Watch out for any bugs or larvae that may be wriggling about – try to identify and eradicate. GET ADVICE!

Step 4 – Time to do some root pruning

Once fully untangled it was possible to establish what  I really needed in this mass of growth.  I identified the core networks of roots I wanted for my tree – removing the rest!

In this case I have removed at least 1/2 of the lower root growth.  New roots will emerge from the cut sites.  In this way it is possible to develop a ramified system.

I have  removed  crossing roots and unwanted large surface roots.  I keep misting the roots to keep them wet whilst I work.

Step 5 – Prepare the pot

I have cleaned the old pot and checked for any winter damage.  In this case it had a hairline crack so I changed it.  Nothing worse than having a pot crack open in winter – risking root damage / death.

I have put a plastic mesh across the drainage holes to reduce the chance of insects getting in and grit getting out.

I then layed down a thin layer of cleaned grit as a base for the bonsai soil. This can reduce water collecting  causing root rot…

Step 6 – Prepare tie wires and soil bed

I cut two lengths of wire for anchoring ties and thread them through the drainage holes.  As the elm has lots of gnarly old roots beneath the surface I will use these to hold the tree in place.

I added the bonsai soil to the level I wanted the tree to sit at and ‘mounded up’ at the position the trunk will be placed.  This is the time to re-check the root and tree fits the pot.  I was aiming for a good radial surface spread and wanted to allow space at the edges for more root growth.

Step 7 – Position the tree

By now you should be happy where the tree will sit.  This is not a process you want to repeat unless you have to – it stresses the tree and can slow/stop growth for the year.

Secure the tree into position with the wire ensuring you avoid future damage to surface roots – wire digging in as they expand. I slide the wires beneath the lower ‘hidden’ roots or use a wooden peg system.

Step 8 – Fill the pot with soil

I gradually added soil to the pot whilst working it into the root network with a chopstick.  Slowly trying to fill any air pockets in hard to get places.

This is the last opportunity to identify and remove any unwanted upward growing roots.  So keep your clippers handy…

In this project I have added a rock and wrapped some of the roots around it to provide interest.  Over the years I hope that it will become gripped by the expanding roots.

Step 9 – Water and Detail

Water the tree carefully until it runs out of the bottom of the pot clear.  Free draining soil avoids the risk of water collecting and risking root rot during this critical early stage.

Check for any final alterations – you can still move the tree if needed.  Make certain it feels secure. You don’t want new root growth breaking due to insecure tie downs.

Brush away unwanted soil from the exposed roots and apply a moss top dressing. (See later blog post)

Step 10 – Admire your work

Take the time to admire what you have achieved – well done!

I make notes in my bonsai diary with a bring up date for the next ‘planned’ repot.  This tree will be fine for at least 3 years but I have a review date set for 2020 (2yrs)

I will not start applying fertiliser for at least 4 weeks or until any new growth starts hardening off.  As an indoor tree you can repot throughout the growing season without much risk.  I avoid winter as my indoor elms go dormant.

If you wish to purchase this tree then send me a message or look in the shop section.

Don’t forget to check all the Bonsai tasks I have added to the Calendar too

If you have other tasks you have to get done then let me know in the comments – it may save one of my trees!

A lot more detail will be added to this post soon…

God Bless & Happy Bonsaiing
Xavier

I killed my first Chinese Elm, also my first bonsai, within the space of 3 months.  I had no knowledge of how to care for this plant and no understanding that such care was needed.  When it first started to shed all of its leaves I panicked and thought it must need more fertiliser – to stop the leaves falling!

When more leaves fell from the bonsai I looked at a book in hope and realised my tree probably had a root problem and must need repotting.  Needless to say, I had no idea about the right soil or when the right time was to do such an operation.  I pulled it out and trimmed the roots, because the book said I should, and then put it back in using a combination of topsoil and John Innes No 2 (potting mix).

Surprisingly, it seemed to ‘pick up’ over the next month and I thought I had the problem solved.  I was now a Bonsai Master!!! Alas, I then noticed the tips of the new shoots were wilting and yellowing.  Clearly I thought, with an air of smugness, I needed to prune this back (like the book says)…

This process of plant murder continued for about 3 months.   It is probably important to mention that I made the biggest ‘common’ mistake by daily overwatering…as well as giving it more fertiliser.  One week later it dropped the last of its leaves and the new shoots browned off and died.  I think I ‘loved it’ to death…

But here is what happened with a dying Chinese Elm that I did take the correct action on

So if you want to learn how NOT TO kill your Chinese Elm Bonsai then I recommend watching this video

God Bless & Happy Bonsaiing

Xav

A Bonsai Basics ‘must’ for anyone wanting see how I use: grit blocks, multisharps and oilstone. If your tools fail you then your bonsai will too…

Topics Covered:

What edge am I talking about?
What equipment do I need for sharpening bonsai tools?
How and why I use a grit block.
How and why I use a multisharpe.
How I use an oilstone
A bit of oil.
Sharpening difficult tools like concave cutters.

God Bless & Happy Bonsaiing for 2023
Xavier

There is only one thing harder to deal with than a ‘false spring’ and that is an extended warm Autumn followed suddenly by a dramatic temperature drop.  This year has been very mild, and it came as no surprise to see my Sycamore Mame Bonsai starting to push growth from VERY green buds – in early January…

What is Winter Hardiness?

Under normal conditions our deciduous bonsai start the process of winter hardening during autumn in anticipation of freezing weather through January – March.  By Christmas / New Year I expect all my bonsai to be in full dormancy and therefore best protected from sub-zero overnight temperatures.

This process involves the plant slowly pulling all the water back into the roots and older trunk tissue leaving a sugar-based sap behind, which acts as an ‘anti-freeze’ for the bonsai. The buds have set for next year and will not activate until the warmer temperatures and increased sunlight drive the sap back up to the branch tips.  This is the process we see take place in Spring.

What happens with unexpected warmer temperatures?

A bonsai can be brought out of winter dormancy prematurely when temperatures start to rise OR if they never drop sufficiently in late autumn.  When this happens, the tree is ‘fooled’ into a False Spring Cycle.  It begins to push sap up toward the buds and in doing so becomes less tolerant of freezing.  The buds may start to unfurl, with the tree expecting full sunlight to support its new growth…

Why is this so bad?

If we are still in the throes of early winter, then the hours of sunlight and daytime temperatures may be insufficient to support the energy requirements of the new growth.  In this case we will see the new leaves droop and eventually die.  This is often what we experience with the onset of a ‘late frost’ in early Spring. Certainly, this caused a lot of dieback issues with my Trident Maple Bonsai in 2021.

But in early winter, there is no expectation of temperatures remaining mild. Instead, as happened here, we were hit by a Polar Vortex which caused temperatures to suddenly drop below freezing.  This will cause the new growth to die and may also result in dieback of some of the twiggy ramified growth.  This is primarily due to the tree no longer being able to withstand the freezing temperatures. So cell walls will rupture…

What can I do?

In early winter monitor the temperature and beware of green housing bonsai too early.  Always keep adequate ventilation to maintain the temperatures required for dormancy.  These will vary dependant on plant species and can also change dependant on wind chill and protective management in place.

If you start to see signs of buds swelling, then consider keeping it somewhere cooler.  Often, this is difficult to achieve so it is better to just leave it.  In some environments it may be possible to bring the bonsai inside to reduce the chance of freezing. This is NOT something I would recommend, and I have no experience of this myself.

What shouldn’t I do?

Under no circumstances do anything to put the tree under greater stress.  In my experience there is very little that can be done to stop the dieback and death of immature growth.  If it has a healthy root system, then it will probably recover and push out weaker new growth in late spring. So, treat it with tenderness

Do not repot or root prune a bonsai if this is taking place.  It is probably the worst time to try such an operation and will increase the chances of plant death.  By doing this you are removing the remaining store of energy held in the roots that the bonsai will need in spring if it is to recover from the effects of winter bud dieback.

And Finally…

This is information that I am providing based on my own experiences dealing with unexpected climate changes in Grantham, Lincolnshire (UK).  This information may not be the same for your region so if you have different experiences then please let me know in the comments.

I would love to hear if there is a way to better manage early bud push in winter.  Enjoy the video and don’t forget to ‘LIKE & Subscribe’…

Happy Bonsaiing and God Bless

Xavier (The Bonsai Retreat)